The Hand's Fit Guide
Your size in one maker rarely tells the whole story in another. This guide brings together what we have learned from years of fitting clients in our Amsterdam boutique and around the world.
While size conversions provide a useful starting point, the right fit depends on much more than numbers. The shape of your foot, the last, and your personal preferences all play a role. Explore how our makers compare, or contact us for personal advice. We are always happy to help you find your fit.
Conversion Chart · Our Makers · By Model · Width · Confirm Your Size · Socks, Belts & Gloves
Start with the Shoes You Own
The best starting point is a pair you already wear. Find that brand in the chart below and read across to our makers. Edward Green is our reference point: for many first fittings, we begin with an unlined Edward Green on the 202 last.
The Hand's Size Conversion Chart
| −1 size | −½ size | Same size | +½ size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Santoni (UK) | Crockett & Jones (UK) | Edward Green (UK) | Gaziano & Girling (UK) |
| Saint Crispin's (UK) | Church's (UK) | ||
| John Lobb (UK), or ½ size down | Alden (US)* | ||
| Maison Corthay (US)* | |||
| Baudoin & Lange (EU) |
*Same fit as Edward Green. The number is higher because these makers use US sizing.
Stefano Bemer fits differently by last. Share your current size and we'll confirm yours.
UK · US · EU
| UK | US | EU |
|---|---|---|
| 6 | 6.5 | 40 |
| 6.5 | 7 | 40.5 |
| 7 | 7.5 | 41 |
| 7.5 | 8 | 41.5 |
| 8 | 8.5 | 42 |
| 8.5 | 9 | 42.5 |
| 9 | 9.5 | 43 |
| 9.5 | 10 | 43.5 |
| 10 | 10.5 | 44 |
| 10.5 | 11 | 44.5 |
| 11 | 11.5 | 45 |
| 11.5 | 12 | 45.5 |
| 12 | 12.5 | 46 |
Our Makers, Side by Side
How each maker compares to the Edward Green 202, and the last we reach for first when fitting that maker.
| Maker | Our reference last | Your size vs. Edward Green 202 | Sizing | How it fits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edward Green | 202 (e.g. Dover) | Reference | UK | The benchmark. The 606 and 303 share the fundamental proportions of the 202, so your regular size is a reliable starting point; the 82 is slimmer in the forefoot; the 184 loafer last has a roomier heel. |
| John Lobb | 7000 (e.g. City II) | Same, or ½ size down | UK | Known for comfortable lasts. Fuller feet often stay in the standard E width. |
| Gaziano & Girling | DG70 | ½ size up | UK | Slightly less volume around the forefoot. |
| Saint Crispin's | Classic | Same | UK | More tailored: the same size gives more grip and support. Your regular Saint Crispin's size will generally carry across to the Novello and other lasts. |
| Maison Corthay | Pullman | Same fit (UK 9 = US 9½) | US | Looks slim, fits generously once your foot is in. A narrow opening, so less suited to a high instep. |
| Alden | Barrie (laced); Aberdeen (loafers) | Same fit (UK 9 = US 9½) | US | Split widths (B/D, C/E): a narrower heel than forefoot. |
| Stefano Bemer | J last | Varies by last | EU | Several lasts, including options for fuller feet. We confirm every Bemer size personally. |
Every maker builds from its own philosophy. British lasts tend to sit flatter; Italian lasts carry a little more volume over the instep. The same size can feel quite different, which is why we look beyond the numbers.
When the Model Matters
- Loafers: with no laces to hold the foot, grip comes from the heel and instep. Many clients go ½ size down, as long as the length still works.
- Unlined shoes: a single layer of leather rather than two can allow ½ size down.
- John Lobb Pace: we recommend ½ size down. The soft suede feels snug at first and stretches with wear.
- Edward Green Polperro: your usual size for a slimmer foot; ½ size up for a higher instep or fuller forefoot.
- Boots: the easiest shoes to fit. Many clients go ½ size up to wear a heavier sock.
On Width
Going up a width adds volume everywhere, including the heel. The heel slips, the foot slides forward, and the shoe can feel too small despite the wider fitting.
The finer the last, the more it follows the shape of a real foot: grip at the heel, room across the ball of the foot. Many men who need a wider fitting elsewhere find they don't at this level of shoemaking. A standard E width at Edward Green generally carries across to our other British makers.
If your heel is narrow and your forefoot broad, Made-to-Order is often the better route. We ask the maker to adjust the last for more room in the forefoot, while the heel stays snug.
A Note on Your Reference Pair
Shoes are often sold slightly large, because a roomy shoe feels comfortable in the store. Many clients discover at their first fitting with us that the size they have worn for years was a touch too big. If your current shoes feel roomy, let us know. It changes our advice.
Breaking In
A Goodyear-welted shoe starts out firm. As you wear it, the cork filler beneath your foot molds to your footprint and the leather softens, until the fit is truly yours. Traditional British shoes may initially feel firmer, while a lighter construction, such as Maison Corthay's, can offer greater flexibility from the first wear.
Breaking in should improve an already comfortable fit, not compensate for choosing the wrong size.
How We Confirm Your Size
When you ask us for sizing advice, we begin with the shoes you already own. Tell us which makers, models, sizes and widths you wear, and how those shoes feel. Are they comfortable throughout the day? Do you feel pressure across the forefoot? Does your heel stay secure? Your answers give us your reference point, and from there we recommend a starting point for the pair you are considering.
When necessary, photographs or a short video consultation can help us refine our advice.
Every pair you purchase gives us a better understanding of your fit, allowing us to offer increasingly personal recommendations.
Because finding your size is not simply about a number. It is about understanding your fit.
Socks, Belts and Gloves
For socks, belts and gloves, see our Size Guide.
The Hand Boutique Amsterdam
